Saturday, 7 January 2012

Last stop! Launceston

The 3 wannabe windmills
We started northwards on Tuesday morning and detoured in to Oatlands, as we were interested in the Georgian windmill operating there. It was partially restored as a Bicentennial gift and an English Millwright has just refitted the mill workings so it grinds flour again. Our tour guide was an ex-breakfast radio announcer and was incredibly good value! He took us to the top floor and explained the process of milling to us as we moved down to the ground floor. We tasted the fresh flour on the way down. Normally I don't think any of us would enjoy tasting flour, but as Marcus said, the flour was a proper and complete food group! The Miller was so passionate about his product that he wouldn't let us buy the flour we had selected, giving us instead the "perfect" flour for Gran's proposed scones!

Launceston wasn't much further and we stopped in at the first van park we found, where we set up under a lovely, shady tree. Gran and I managed to hang out two loads of washing in complete darkness before bed.

A 1948 Holden similar to the one Jessie and Arthur bought
when Gran was little
I was awoken very early on Wednesday morning by thunder and fat rain drops hitting the canvas, so I bolted up to rescue our mainly dry washing. The storm passed quickly and we headed into town to visit the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania, which the boys in particular enjoyed. Gran found her parent's first car and Dave found his grandparent's car (which was requisitioned by the War Effort) as well as the BSA Bantam motorbike his Dad rode whilst at university.

The kids got a model car each and Ella's Beetle, Marcus's Morris Minor, Lachie's Corvette and Jackson's Volkswagon had a race outside the museum. There was a dispute over line honours due to the race photographer standing on the wrong angle, but Marcus feels that he took the chequered flag!

Heading into the straight in the Launceston 500

Literally across the street was City Park and we enjoyed watching the Japanese Macaque monkeys. Lachie commented upon how like people they were. I had to agree - I'm certain I saw Jackson sorting through his Lego!

The suspension bridge over Cataract Gorge.
It has been washed away in a flood at least once!
Cataract Gorge is a remarkable forest area right in the middle of the city and we took a chairlift over the gorge, returning along the short track over the suspension bridge. The van park was three minutes from there, so we drove back for lunch. Pap elected to have a rest while the rest of us returned to the gorge. Dave and the kids enjoyed a swim in the huge, natural pool complete with floating logs to play on, while Gran and I walked the zigzag track up the gorge to King's Bridge and back along the other side on the beautiful Cataract Walk.

A tour along the Tamar Valley occupied us all day on Thursday. The Tamar Valley Wetlands provided a long boardwalk over the swamp which we wandered along whilst admiring the birdlife. We carried on a few more kilometres to Grindewald, billed as a Swiss Village, but disappointing after the fantastic, authentic German village of Hahndorf. It was very touristy and we only stayed long enough to swill our coffee. While doing so, we were approached by a family of ex-Tamborinites who have moved here. I had taught their daughter music and she recognised Mr. Church! The best thing about Grindewald was the cherry orchard just outside with farm gate sales. We munched happily on cherries as we continued up the Tamar.

The very windy but spectacular clifftop view at West Head Lookout
We had lunch at Beauty Point (which may have been beautiful before woodchipping and port industries claimed its foreshore) and continued up to the top of the estuary at Green's Beach, where we thought we would have a swim. It was very cold and windy, so after a short walk along the beach we took a detour to West Head Lookout in Narawntapu National Park, which was definitely the highlight of the day. Apart from the fabulous, freshly picked cherries! Crossing the Tamar River at Batman Bridge (the kids were happy with that name!) we drove down the East Tamar Highway and back to Launceston.


Trying to keep warm in Drizabones!
Friday was a fantastic day from start to finish. The sky was an amazing blue and it was a delightful drive out to Ben Lomond National Park. Pap was watching the temperature gauge with some dismay as we climbed up the mountain, losing degrees as quickly as we gained altitude. It was 9 degrees when we arrived at the ski village (but much colder if you counted the wind chill factor) and we were very pleased to find an indoor shelter to have our morning tea. Pap was so pleased that he was contemplating a thank you letter to National Parks and Wildlife for providing the life-saving structure!

Not a lot warmer inside!


Pap retired to the Prado to compose his letter, read his book and listen to the cricket as we headed off into the rocks to climb to a peak and admire the view. It was well worth the scramble up the rocks. You could see Bass Strait from up there.

One of the high points on Ben Lomond







Heading off the mountain, we took the scary gravel road through the 6 hairpin bends which none of us wish to ever drive in winter with ice and snow! This road is certainly not for the faint-hearted! By way of compensation, the scenery is utterly superb and the views magnificent; but the driver does not get to enjoy them as they concentrate on the tight bends and the loose gravel.
This photo needs to be 3D to display
the full horror of this road

It took another 40 minutes or so of gravel roads to join the A3 west of Scottsdale. We were all starving, so stopped in the middle of the forest to eat our lunch on a handy fallen log which was surrounded by dead possums, although we didn't realise that until halfway through lunch. We had just got back onto the road when the forest abruptly gave way to farmland and the most amazing view was to be had with handy picnic tables as well at Sideling Lookout.

Sideling Lookout - I think the kids were celebrating
no-one being carsick on the windy journey
 From Scottsdale we took another scenic route to the Bridestowe Lavender Farm. The lavender harvest was in full swing and we all enjoyed following the process from tractor and harvester, unloading with the gantries, the oil distillery and drying sheds through to eating lavender scones and icecream in the cafe!

Ella wore the right colour!


Couldn't resist tapdancing!
Our last day in Launceston began this morning with bacon and eggs and a later than usual start as we were all a bit weary. We drove into town to look at some of the outstanding Georgian and Victorian architecture and we found the famous Old Umbrella Shop, which is a National Trust building and is still functioning as it was in the 1860s. I was very happy to find a replacement for my music umbrella which was lost some time ago.
The National Trust was founded in Tasmania
 in 1960 to save this historic building.










Hitting the highway for more history, we headed south to visit Franklin House.

It was threatened with demolition in 1960, but a group of determined people formed The National Trust to purchase, restore and furnish this house, built in 1838. We thoroughly enjoyed wandering through all the rooms, the adjoining kitchen, schoolroom and stables. Ella was very excited to discover some "glasses" for horses in the stable. Pap explained what a bit was to her! The gardens were fantastic, particularly the kitchen garden which has inspired us to get ours going again when we get home.

After a picnic in the beautiful grounds of Franklin House, we drove a little further south where we had to choose between visiting Clarendon House, Woolmer Estate or Brickenden Estate. Brickenden won and we were transported back in time to the 1800s on a farm which is now farmed by the seventh generation. Ella and Lachie had a lovely time feeding all the chicks and ducklings while we walked around the many buildings and sheds which were all convict built.

Brickendon's Pillar Granary - constructed on staddle stones
to keep vermin out and to circulate air to prevent mould in the grain.
A quick look at the Homestead and gardens finished our tour of Brickendon and we drove back to Launceston with rapidly deteriorating behaviour in the back seat. An early night was called for as we have yet to drive to Devonport and sail across Bass Strait.

Stay tuned ...

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