Uluru and Kata Tjuta

If you are of a certain vintage (like me!), Ayers Rock and The Olgas will mean more to you than the above heading! Since joint management of the park began in 1985, Anangu ownership of the land has been formally recognised by the dual naming policy. We learnt on our guided Malu walk that climbing the rock (which is formally discouraged at present) will be ending in 2019, or sooner if visitors who climb fall below 18% of the total visitor numbers. Fall is probably an apt word, as 40 people so far have died on the climb. Many more have been injured or have succumbed to heart attacks back in Yulara after their exertions. The Traditional Owners make it very clear that they prefer visitors not to climb, with warning signs and cultural explanations visible at the beginning of the climb route.

Our usual view of Ella - she can outwalk all of us!

After a freezing cold night - so cold that Ella had to climb into bed with Marcus - we got organised to drive out to Uluru. We chose not to climb, instead joining the Guided Malu Walk around part of the base. That just whetted our appetites, so we decided to walk the entire 11 kms around the rock. Ella, in her usual style, led us all the way around - hopping, skipping and dancing along. Her Dreamtime Totem must be Rock Wallaby! We were surprised to find that there are two waterholes around the base, one is semi-permanent and the other permanent. The south side was cooler and shady and a very pleasant walk. Much of the area was sacred and photographs were not allowed, but we took a few in the designated areas.

Four senior men still watch over the cave of learning

One of the wave-like formations

The colours are due to lichen (black), bird urine (white)
and the red is iron oxide rusting in the sandstone.

That evening, the kids stayed up in the sand dunes after viewing the lovely sunset on Uluru. They buried Jackson up to his neck in the red sand and made a lovely bikini out of plants on top of him. He was happy to stay there, as the sand was warm and the temperature was dropping fast! We were better prepared for another cold night as I dragged out all the winter gear which I had stashed away earlier in the trip.

Warm and cosy in his bikini top.

Holding on to our hats in the Valley of the Winds!

We could see Kata Tjuta from our campsite - I hadn't realised that it was so close to Uluru - so the next day we decided to explore Kata Tjuta and walk the Valley of the Winds. It was easy to see why the walk was so named as the wind whistled up the gorge. The area is quite green after the unusually high rainfall of recent months, and the locals describe it as "lush"; although that is going a bit far to our coastal eyes! We thoroughly enjoyed the 7.4km circuit which included two lovely views of the rocks from high vantage points.

Trying to keep up with Ella!

Karingana Lookout

As we were having lunch at a nearby picnic area (with awesome views of Kata Tjuta) we were amazed to hear a Chiming Wedgebill - one of our favourite birds we saw at the Desert Park in Alice Springs. After some time spent searching for it, we had to admit defeat, but it was great to hear it! Deciding that we had enough energy to walk the Gorge Walk as well, we wandered up the gorge in deep shadow. The walls were polished smooth by water flowing through the narrow valley and it was a lovely walk, but it was a unanimous decision to return to camp, so we drove back to Yulara. The boys disappeared for ages to skateboard and ripstik (and visit the reception shop to get some lollies we discovered later!) while Ella played a game with her toys in the red dirt, drawing lines and symbols in the sand like an Anangu child!

The Spinifex Hopping Mice all came out in force again to feast on crumbs and rice. Uluru was eerie in the moonlight - it was almost a full moon.

The next morning we packed up for our trip to King's Canyon, but we drove back to the Cultural Centre to spend some time there. The whole place has been designed with Anangu input and is very informative. The shop sells locally made art and artefacts. A pair of traditional clapping sticks found their way into our collection of musical instruments that we are carting around the country.

Time was ticking on, so we drove east and stopped at the Mt Conner lookout for lunch. The kids bolted up the huge, red sand dune on the opposite side of the road and came back terribly excited having "discovered" a large salt pan. It was slightly reminiscent of Lake Taupo, with the island in the middle, although only salt-cured trout would be caught in there!

The Salt Pan Explorers!

The drive along Luritja Road to King's Canyon was uneventful, following fire-blackened country all the way. It must have been fairly recent, as several hotspots were still smoking. Our petrol was low and we were not sure if we would make it, but fortunately we got there without any trouble. We haven't filled the fuel jerry can yet but perhaps it would be a good idea!

Stay tuned ...